A design code that has remained unchanged for nearly 100 years. IWC’s Portugieser is beautiful

Aside from collectors, if you want to buy a luxury watch, you want a “watch that you can buy without mistake”. When asking watch lovers around the world about such watches, the model that almost always ranks high is the “Portugieser” from “IWC”. Combining high precision, excellent visibility and a sophisticated simple design, this watch has a number of prestigious flagship high status, universal value that is timeless and fashionable, and versatility that matches a wide range of styling. A special model that also has beauty. The timepiece that embodies the functional beauty of “IWC” fits in your wrist with a strong presence, giving it an intellect and dignity.

“IWC” was founded in 1868 by Florentine Ariost Jones, an American watchmaker and engineer. Based in Schaffhausen, located in the northern part of Switzerland. After its establishment, we will release a series of epoch-making watches such as pocket watches that digitally display the hour and minute and watches that use the movement of women’s watches. In 1915, the brand’s first wristwatch movement was developed, and in 1936, the pilot watch for the Royal Air Force was announced.

Since Schaffhausen, the home of the company, is near the border with Germany, the design of “IWC” has a simple and robust atmosphere that is familiar to the products of other countries. The gorgeous decoration is eliminated, and the impression is simple even for a model with a complicated mechanism. The style was one of the most distinctive Swiss watch brands. It was in 1939 that such “IWC” created “Portugieser”. In response to a request from a Portuguese watch dealer, “a watch that keeps accurate time even during voyages,” we have created a wristwatch equipped with a highly accurate pocket watch movement. The “Portugieser”, which had a large 42 mm diameter case at that time, had a unique presence in the watch world at that time.

Check out the features of “Portugieser”. First of all, the design of the needle. The leaf hands and the three-dimensional applied index show the time in an easy-to-understand manner. The dial is also characteristic, and in the case of the chronograph, the small seconds at 6 o’clock and the 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock are arranged vertically symmetrically. In addition, the in-dial that has been enlarged to interfere with the index is arranged in a vertical row, and inside the outer bezel, there is a railway minute scale called Shemand Fail, which is reminiscent of a railroad track. The perfect balance of these details makes the impression look as clean as a chronograph, and you can read the time at a glance. Excellent visibility, high accuracy, lean and sophisticated design. The unique charm of “Portugieser” is the unification of the three elements that “IWC” values.

“Portugieser” is not cheap, even the most basic “automatic”, starting from around 700,000 yen. However, since “IWC” is one of the brands that guarantees permanent repair, you can use it with confidence for a long time. Repairing antique watches is costly, such as storing parts and know-how, so only a limited number of brands carry out repairs. Among them, “IWC” accepts repairs of all watches manufactured since its establishment, and even parts that have already been manufactured will be manufactured again and repaired. The reason why “Portugieser” is said to be a “watch that you can buy without mistake” is also due to the privilege of a permanent repair warranty given to the owner.

There are only models with a long history, and there are many variations of “Portugieser”. The lineup includes a minimalistic 3-hand automatic, a chronograph with two upper and lower in-dial, and a perpetual calendar. In addition, there are gold-colored “gold needles” and blue “blue needles”, which change the impression. If you value dressiness and style, choose gold needles, and if you value a stylish image that matches casual wear, choose blue needles.

1st

A timepiece that should be the origin of “Portugieser”. Based on the original model released in 1939, the visibility has been refined by the railway track and applied index. In this model, the hour and minute hands are gold hands, and only the second hand of the sub dial is blue, which is a subtle difference. The case with a diameter of about 40 mm, which is more compact than other models, goes well with dressy suit styles. SS case, 40.4 mm, self-winding.

To commemorate the 150th anniversary of the founding of “IWC”, this is a reproduction of the original model from the 1930s. The enamel dial finished with white lacquer and the blue steel hands shine brightly, enhancing the stylish image. The see-through back specification that allows you to appreciate the self-winding movement Cal.59215, which boasts a long power reserve of about 192 hours, and the alligator strap made by Santoni, Italy also stimulate the desire to own. SS case, size 43.2 mm, self-winding.

3rd

The chronograph, released in the 1990s, was the driving force behind the blockbuster “Portugieser”. The feature is, after all, the second design that is lined up vertically. The indial, laid out to cover the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock Arabian indexes, not only accentuates the design, but also helps improve visibility. In this model, the hour, minute and chronograph hands are gold hands, and only the second hand is blue. SS case, size 41 mm, self-winding.

4th

“Portugieser” is often talked about in words such as “sophistication” and “elegance”, but this model is a bit different. In addition to the rose gold case that gives off a pinkish sparkle, the slate gray dial with gold hands and indexes brings out the sex appeal of adults. The strap is a black alligator strap that should be called the classic of “Portugieser”. Since the total number of colors is suppressed, there is no gorgeous impression. RG case, size 41 mm, self-winding.

5th

The first tide function of “IWC” has been added to the “Portugieser Yacht Club”, an amphibious sports watch type that debuted in 2010. A subdial laid out at 6 o’clock displays the estimated time of high tide and low tide. Furthermore, the double moon display at 12 o’clock displays information on the strength of the tide in addition to the spring tide and the spring tide. The case is rose gold and is equipped with a self-winding movement that boasts a power reserve of approximately 60 hours. Water resistant to 3 bar. 18kRG case, size 44.6mm, self-winding.

6th

The normal calendar mechanism needs to be adjusted at the end of the month, but with an annual calendar called an annual calendar, that effort is not required. If you make adjustments only on the last day of February once a year, the clock will automatically advance the other months. This is the first model with an annual calendar in “IWC”. The movement, which has a long power reserve of about 7 days, reduces the trouble of adjusting the calendar of the owner. With power reserve display. RG case, size 44.2 mm, self-winding.

7th

A perpetual calendar is a complex mechanism that has a month, day, and day of the week display and a moon phase, and does not require adjustment not only at the end of each month but also in leap years once every four years. In addition, the normal perpetual calendar takes time to readjust, but the movement installed in this model can be easily adjusted because all calendar functions can be linked and advanced for one day by operating the crown. is. The case is rose gold. RG case, size 42.4 mm, self-winding.

8th

A complication clock called “Double Moon” equipped with a mechanism that simultaneously displays the phases of the moon in the northern and southern hemispheres. The sight of the two golden moons floating on the jet-black dial is spectacular. In addition, the perpetual calendar may take time to readjust when the watch stops, so this model is equipped with a movement that boasts a long power reserve of about 7 days. The ultimate “Portugieser” with the essence of “IWC” technology, such as the 4-digit year display. Rose gold. RG case, size 44.2 mm, self-winding.

A popular model among long-time “IWC” fans is the cursive logo “Portofino”. Since “IWC” abolished the cursive logo in the 2000s and replaced it with the current Mincho logo, the cursive logo was prized among collectors as “old-fashioned IWC”, that is, an old inter-like detail. There is.

And did you know that “Portugieser” with such a rare logo was released in the past? The limited edition model released to commemorate the 75th anniversary of its birth is based on the image of the 1930s when “Portugieser” was born. Large leaf hands, 3/6/9 Arabic numerals, small seconds at 6 o’clock, etc. are displayed, and the logo is in cursive. It’s limited to 750 pieces worldwide, so it’s not easy to get, but it really tickles your desire to own it. This is a used item. SS case, size 43 mm, self-winding.