A man’s heart attracted to the specs. How to choose a diver’s watch and 21 popular models

A diver’s watch full of functional beauty, powerful and with a background. The world has always captivated a man who is particular about specs. Let’s explain the model we should choose from among the many masterpieces.

Men’s watch standard. I’m attracted to divers’ watches

A diver’s watch that has been favored by divers who are professionals in the sea, as opposed to pilot watches provided to aviators who are professionals in the sky. We have only continued to challenge the deep sea, which is a battle against water pressure, which is regarded as a great enemy for wristwatches, and there are many things whose water resistance reaches several hundred meters in the deep sea, which can be said to be useless for living human beings. It’s literally over-engineered for city dwellers, but it’s also a man’s heart to be attracted to such watches. Against this background, divers’ watches have long been the main category of men’s watches.

Men's watch standard.  The second image attracted to divers' watches

At the same time as the specs, that is the reason why its looks continue to be supported regardless of the times. The index is clean and highly visible, the solid rotating bezel, and the case itself are thick, and when you wear it, you will be overwhelmed by its presence, which can be called a lump of metal. Even when it is fitted to the arm of the suit, it works well as a symbol of trust and sincerity due to its profound feeling. Of course, it’s perfect as a casual style accent. This depth of bosom is an advantage unique to divers’ watches that cannot be imitated by digital watches and dress watches. Especially in these days when the boundary between business and casual is becoming vague, I get the impression that the demand is increasing.

4 points to check when choosing a diver’s watch

There are some details and features that make a diver’s watch different from other watches such as dress watches and pilot watches. If you are considering a diver’s watch from now on, you should pay attention to the following four points.

Point 1

“Waterproof performance” that indicates how much water pressure can be withstood

Since it is a diver’s watch that is positioned as an equipment for professional divers, waterproof performance is still an essential condition. Generally, it is said that it is waterproof to 200m that is judged to be practical. This number is just how deep you can withstand in a stationary state. When it involves movement such as swimming or diving, the value is not limited.

"Waterproof performance" that indicates how much water pressure can be withstood200m waterproof … It can be used for marine sports such as surfing and swimming, but it is difficult to dive. ・ 300m waterproof … It can be used for diving in earnest from here. It does not support work in the deep sea after infiltrating helium into the body tissue called saturated diving until it becomes saturated.・ 500m waterproof ~ … When saturated divers and professional divers perform salvage work on the seabed. Infact, it is enough to have a waterproofness of 200 to 300 m, which is the level that is finally needed . Nowadays, there are models that claim to be waterproof to over 1,000m, but it is a world that can be called a man’s romance as well as the story of how many kilometers a sports car can produce at maximum speed.

“Magnetic resistance” that shuts out the influence of magnetism on watches

Magnetic resistance is often overlooked because of its waterproof performance. Many people would not buy a wristwatch considering the invisible magnetic force, but in the present age surrounded by digital objects, it is an important factor to extend the life of mechanical wristwatches. Part of this is a move by a major manufacturer to switch the hairspring to silicon. And this magnetic resistance is also one of the specifications that positions the diver’s watch as a diver’s watch.

"Magnetic resistance" that shuts out the influence of magnetism on watches

It is a condition of a diver’s watch that it has the first kind of magnetic resistance in the ISO or JIS standard. This first type guarantees that the function will not be hindered if the distance is up to 5 cm from the magnetic product, and the numerical value is 4,800 A / m. Even so, you may be surprised if you can’t get close to it within 5 cm, but a typical wristwatch is 1,600 A / m. Even the speaker section of TVs and mobile phones has an effect, so you can see how a wristwatch is magnetically vulnerable. I would like you to consider the magnetic resistance as a criterion at the time of purchase.

“Rotating bezel (or inner bezel)” for measuring dive time

It is this rotating bezel that occupies a large part of the looks in a diver’s watch. Originally, it was born as a function to measure how many minutes you are diving when diving. Since the point at 12 o’clock is just set to the time when the dive starts, it can be easily operated even with the fingertips wearing a wet suit. Currently, the “reverse rotation prevention bezel” that rotates only in one direction has become the mainstream in order to prevent the bezel from going backwards during diving and causing a life-threatening accident.

"Rotating bezel (or inner bezel)" for measuring dive time

However, it is just one of the designs for us on land. From the so-called Pepsi color retro red-blue aluminum, to the beautifully glossy ceramics, to the bronze that can be fully enjoyed over time, there are now a wide variety of materials. It’s a good idea to choose according to your purpose, such as whether to use it in the business scene or as an accent in a casual style.

A thick “index” that boasts high visibility even in the deep sea

A thick "index" that boasts high visibility even in the deep sea

A diver’s watch made assuming dim water. If so, its visibility is also an essential detail as a life-saving tool. Not only is the index and hour and minute hands coated with luminous paint, but the index also has large numbers and dots that emphasize visibility, and you can see at a glance where the hands are pointing as well. In many cases, wide items that can be understood are placed. These factors result in the rugged and masculine look of a diver’s watch. It’s a good example of how functionality has been sublimated into design.

Even if it is a diver’s watch, it is necessary to be careful not to overconfide the specifications

Even if it is a diver's watch, it is necessary to be careful not to overconfide the specifications

Even a model with a water resistance of 200m is not always good to be exposed to water. A familiar example of NG is bringing it to a hot spring or bathhouse. The water pressure in the shower is higher than we think, and the alteration and deformation of the waterproof packing due to boiling water can cause serious problems. Also, when I correct the time and date, I forget to screw in the screw-down crown …. I can’t even see the day when I made a mistake.

The above specs should be considered as “safe to have” in daily life.

Only prestigious machines that do not lose. Speaking of diver’s watches, 21 models

Pick up popular models from brands that have a family word in diver’s watches. From reprints of good old tastes to modern and rugged ones, we have a selection of them.

“Rolex” Submariner Date

"Rolex" Submariner Date

The “Submariner” of “Rolex”, the king of luxury watches, was first released in 1953. Until then, “Rolex” had some watches with oyster cases, but “Submariner” is probably famous as a “so-called” diver’s watch. This is one that was unveiled at Baselworld in 2010, but the design that was already completed at that time has not changed significantly, and the luminescent paint of chromalite incorporates parachrome mustache royal fern, ceramic bezel and contemporary details. I’m out.

“Tudor” Heritage Black Bay Fifty Eight 925

"Tudor" Heritage Black Bay Fifty Eight 925

With the rise of “Black Bay”, “Tudor” is taking its own route. The “Fifty Eight”, which is created from the exquisite size of 2mm, but 2mm, is full of charm that cannot be overlooked as an arranged model. Consideration was given to the features and size of the time. You should realize that the wall with a diameter of 40 mm is thicker than you think. The movement is made in-house. Enjoy the benefits of Kenissi, which is thrilling now.

“Audemars Piguet” Royal Oak Offshore Diver

"Audemars Piguet" Royal Oak Offshore Diver

In fact, there are authentic divers models in “Royal Oak,” which has established itself as a sports watch that can also be used as a dress. That is “Royal Oak Offshore Diver”. The iconic octagonal bezel design remains the same, but with an inner bezel that can be operated with the crown at 10 o’clock, it follows the function of a diver’s watch. Water resistant to 300m, despite being a skeleton with a back cover that allows you to worship the movement caliber 3120 made in-house. The strap is also made of rubber, which is familiar to the arm, and is finished in one that is resistant to getting wet.

“Blancpain” Fifty Fasoms

"Blancpain" Fifty Fasoms

In 1953, along with the “Submariner” of “Rolex”, “Fifty Fasoms” of “Blancpain” is said to have laid the foundation for the diver’s watch that continues to the present day. Of course, “Panerai” and others had been manufacturing military diving watches before that, but it was these two companies that had a rotating bezel and finished it with a “so-called” look that was both waterproof and visible. rice field.

The international standard for divers’ watches was established in 1993. It is said that the performance of “Fifty Fazoms” at that time cleared the standard, so it can be seen that the model is not only retro-looking but also highly functional. Now the model is also water resistant to 300m.

“Panerai” Luminor 1950 Submersible 3 Days Achaio

"Panerai" Luminor 1950 Submersible 3 Days Achaio

“Panerai”, which has been delivering precision equipment using fluorescent material and radio meal to the Italian Navy since its establishment in the 19th century, is also one of the indispensable brands in the diver’s watch lineup. Among them, the “Submersible” series, which specializes in durability and visibility, has high-spec watches for professionals.

This model is also equipped with the caliber P.900, which is a self-winding movement manufactured in-house, in a thick case boasting a water resistance of 300 m. It has a long power reserve of 3 days and is perfect for practical use. The presence of the bezel is also noteworthy.

“Longines” Legend Diver

"Longines" Legend Diver

The “Legend Diver” of “Longines”, which is a reproduction of the legendary model of the 1960s, stands out among the big diver’s watches. The rotating bezel is placed on the outer circle of the dial, and the inner bezel operated by the crown at 2 o’clock realizes an overwhelmingly smart appearance. Of course, the details required for a diver’s watch, such as a screw-down crown and screw back, are suppressed, and the waterproof performance is 300 m. By the way, this is a 2021 model that was made in a gradation while picking up the trendy green. Metal breath models are also available depending on the color, so you can choose that.

“Oris” Divers 65

"Oris" Divers 65

The fan-coveted “Divers 65” is a reproduction of the popular model of “Oris” that was born in 1965. You can see the remnants of a vintage watch on the tanned index and dome-shaped windshield, but the windshield also uses sapphire crystal and other modern technologies. In this work, the use of gold is also effective, and it is also ideal as the second adult male because of the reasonable price that is typical of “Oris”. The waterproof performance is 100m, but if design is important, one of these is probably an ant.

“Breitling” Super Ocean Heritage B20 Automatic 46

"Breitling" Super Ocean Heritage B20 Automatic 46

Although “Breitling” has a strong image of a pilot watch, it manufactures diver’s watches for professionals in the sea. This “Super Ocean” series was announced in 1957. While maintaining the retro-chic appearance of that time, this work is finished as a highly practical one that incorporates modern technology while maintaining a water resistance of 200 m. “Breitling” has a family word in a model that looks like an instrument, but if you want to emphasize the modernity, such a large-diameter 3-needle model would be a good idea.

“Jin” U2

"Jin" U2

“Gin” is recommended from Germany, a watch powerhouse. As the company name “Sinn Special Watch Company” suggests, the brand has many watches that are active in special environments, but the “U series” is a model that is highly regarded by enthusiasts due to its specs “transformation”. become.

The material used for this “U2” is U-boat steel, which is also used for German submarines, with a tegiment treatment to improve scratch resistance. The water resistance is overwhelming 200 atm (2,000 m), equipped with a dry capsule that removes water inside, and filled with argon gas that ensures visibility even in the deep sea. Undoubtedly, it is the first watch that is “metamorphic” in a good sense, with specifications that exceed the price.

“Bell & Ross” BR03-92

"Bell & Ross" BR03-92

Speaking of “Bell & Ross”, the “BR” series, which was inspired by the design of aviation equipment, is probably famous. The unique structure of the one-piece square case sealed with four screws from the front is unique, and many people have seen the watch without knowing the brand name. .. Therefore, “Bell & Ross” has a strong image of “sky”, but it is not limited to aviation watches as a brand. The field of brands aiming for professional-use high-performance watches sometimes reaches space and the deep sea. This is just a watch of the sea. The square face with a water resistance of 300m is really robust, and the dot index and anti-reverse bezel that are modeled after divers show the charm of the “BR” series, which is different.

“Edox” Skydiver Neptunian Automatic

"Edox" Skydiver Neptunian Automatic

Even if the diver is a diver, he is a “sky diver”. This one is said to have been developed in secret for the Swiss parachute unit, but it has a 300m water resistance, a high-tech ceramic anti-reverse bezel, and specs that are perfect for a diver’s watch. For such serious specs, we have acquired a dignity that suits suits with small hour markers and a dial that shows beautiful gradation. Normally, the hour hand is a Benz hand, but you can not miss the changes such as the more stylish arrow hand in this model.

“Ball Watch” Engineer Hydrocarbon

"Ball Watch" Engineer Hydrocarbon

There are brands in each country that sometimes make me think “I think it’s overkill” in terms of specifications. In Germany, “Jin”, in Japan, “Seiko”, and in the United States, this “Ball Watch” would be applicable. This “Engineer Hydrocarbon” is a high-class one with “3 resistance” of impact resistance, magnetic resistance, and water resistance. Especially with regard to magnetic resistance, we have achieved 80,000 A / m by adopting a mu-metal inner case, which is the specialty of “Ball Watch”. If you hear that this is equivalent to the “Milgauss” and “Ingenieur” that are specialized as anti-magnetic watches, you can see how excellent they are. However, above all, the feeling of a “metal lump” that is purely contained in a diameter of 40 mm is wonderful. If you’re looking for a brand that’s different from others, there’s no doubt.

“Grand Seiko” Sports Collection Diver

"Grand Seiko" Sports Collection Diver

It is no exaggeration to say that it is an eternal standard for domestic watches, and “Grand Seiko” has a strong image of a sharpened three-hand watch. However, in recent years, he has been working on the manufacture of high-performance sports watches by utilizing the know-how cultivated in “Seiko Prospex”. While taking in the context of a diver’s watch such as the crown at 4 o’clock and the rotating bezel with a thick bone, the balance that makes you feel somewhere in the “Seiko style” that has been the axis of design since it was established in 1967 is just amazing. .. You may be worried that the price will increase as the specs increase due to the water resistance of 200m, but if you choose a machine equipped with 9F quartz, it will be within the range due to the bonus.

“Hamilton” Khaki Navy Open Water

"Hamilton" Khaki Navy Open Water

Land / sea / sky. The “Khaki” series of “Hamilton” has released military watches equipped with the functions required in each field. This work is an aluminum bezel with an outstanding presence, and as the crown guard that prevents malfunction of the crown tells, it is a model of the “sea” in it. Not only the looks but also the specifications are sufficient, the waterproof performance is 300m, and the power reserve is 80 hours with peace of mind. There are also high-end models that are waterproof to 1,000m and have functions for realistic divers, but if you handle them daily, this is a good choice.

“Tissot” Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80

"Tissot" Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80

Watch brand “Tissot” boasts an overwhelming market share in the watch powerhouse Switzerland. What supports that number is the high specs for the price. This “Seastar 1000” is a diver’s watch with a waterproof performance of “1000” feet (about 300m) as the number of the model name indicates. As a strength of the brand that has ETA in the group, it is equipped with the latest movement with a long power reserve of 80 hours, a thick pencil needle, a highly visible dot index and basic functions are also firmly suppressed. With this, I have no choice but to groan at around 100,000 yen.

“Seiko Prospex” Diver Scuba

"Seiko Prospex" Diver Scuba

As a domestic diver, don’t forget “Seiko Prospex”. “Tuna can” with an outer body protector is famous as a diver of the same series, but this “SBDC101” that appeared on the 55th anniversary of “Seiko Divers” in 2020 greatly aroused the hearts of fans who love “Seiko”.

In a diver’s watch with a large case of 42 mm or more, the current model that follows the memorable first divers has achieved a case diameter of 40.5 mm. Not to be underestimated as only 1 or 2 mm, this subtle number greatly affects the impression on the arm. The movement uses “6R35”, which is also found in the upper line of “Seiko Presage”, and achieves high precision and long-term driving of about 70 hours. But what’s most appealing is that it reproduces the original air at this price. The thick bezel looks fresh on the casual pencil needle.

“Bulova” Devil Diver

"Bulova" Devil Diver

It’s a noisy name, but the name “Devil” is named after the 666 feet (about 200m) waterproof performance of this model, which was revolutionary in the 1960s. The original name is “Ocean Grapher”.

The orange dial model introduced this time is a reproduction of what seems to be the 1971 production version. The rescue orange unique to divers’ watches gives a vivid impression to the wrist. The case diameter is 41 mm, which is one size smaller than the regular model, so it is easy to fit into Japanese thin arms.

“Zodiac” Super Sea Wolf 53

"Zodiac" Super Sea Wolf 53

In the vintage watch area, the brand “Zodiac” has received high support from enthusiasts. When the brand revives in 2014, the current model “Super Sea Wolf”, which was attracting attention as a watch that achieved epoch-making water resistance of 20 atmospheres at that time, will also be reprinted. Since there were many enthusiastic fans, as a result of faithfully reproducing the archive, it is finished as one that can fully enjoy the atmosphere of the time. The transparent bezel made of mineral crystals has a refreshing feeling and is very comfortable. Of course, it is water resistant to 20 bar.

“Orient” Orient Star Diver

"Orient" Orient Star Diver

Here is the diver’s watch that has been released for a long time for “Orient Star”. While having a full-fledged waterproof performance of 200m, it is finished in a rounded overall design that is modern and unique to adults. It is also supposed to be worn in a suit, and the bezel has a gentle slope toward the edge. This reduces the catch on the cuffs of jackets and shirts that divers tend to have. It won the Good Design Award in 2019, and if you choose a diver’s watch from the design, it is one that you want to include.

“Victorinox” Inox Professional Diver Titanium

"Victorinox" Inox Professional Diver Titanium

When you hear “Victorinox”, you might imagine the familiar multi-tool, but in fact, it has been increasing its presence in the wristwatch industry in recent years. The flag waving role is “Inox”, which has gained high support from outdoor men due to its overwhelming durability. This is an orthodox diver’s watch that has received ISO6425 certification, and has acquired magnetic resistance in addition to water resistance of 200 m. Not only is the titanium case lighter than it looks, but it is also safe to wear for people with metal allergies.

“Citizen” Promaster Marine

"Citizen" Promaster Marine

Even for domestic divers, if you want a more functional and stoic model, we recommend this from the “Promaster” series of “Citizen”. In addition to 200m water resistance, urethane band, high magnetic resistance and specifications considering professional use, the photovoltaic eco-drive like “Citizen” is equipped with a time adjustment function by radio waves, making it a nice one for everyday use. It should be very useful not only in the deep sea but also in the concrete jungle.

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