The ultimate complex watch “Franck Muller” created by a genius watchmaker is now once again attracting the enthusiastic eyes of watch lovers. Let’s re-read the history of the 29 years that continued to rewrite the history of watches.
Unique personality. Meaning to choose a “Franck Muller” watch
“Franck Muller” caused an unprecedented boom in the early 2000s. As soon as it landed in Japan, it was used by actors, models, and athletes, and became a status symbol that symbolized the era. Its popularity is deep-rooted, and nowadays, watch fans are highly acclaimed for its complex mechanism and unique design that make full use of transcendental techniques. With the 30th anniversary of the brand’s founding approaching next year, let’s explore the unique charm of “Franck Muller” watches now that the boom is coming back.
“Franck Muller” goes on its own route. A dense history that does not seem to have been founded in 1992
Only 29 years after its founding, “Franck Muller” has become one of the top brands in the watch industry. Its history overlaps with the history of genius watchmaker Franck Muller. Born in Switzerland in 1858, he began his career as an independent watchmaker after graduating from the Geneva watch school as a teenager at the top of his class. In 1986, when the world’s first regulator type dial with free vibration tourbillon and jumping hour function was developed, complicated mechanisms were announced one after another. In 1992, he founded “Franck Muller” with jewelery artist Valtan Sirmakes.
Even after the brand was founded, the motivation for development has never stopped, and we continue to announce models that integrate complex mechanisms almost every year. The world’s first mechanism that has been created so far has reached more than 30 so far, and “Vegas” that reproduces roulette and “Crazy Hours” that has a special jumping hour function are not only complicated but also original appearance. Also called a big topic. While many watch brands currently belong to a huge corporate group, “Franck Muller” continues to follow its own route. The genius watchmaker, called “The Return of Breguet,” will continue to create masterpieces that overturn the concept of wristwatches.
Pursuing a difference from others. A wristwatch that embodies the aesthetics of “Franck Muller”
What is the masterpiece of “Franck Muller”? If you ask watch lovers, you will get various answers such as “Tonow Carbex” and “Crazy Hours”. Yes, one of the strengths of “Franck Muller” is the abundant variations like a clock museum. First of all, I would like to introduce the five major collections that are positioned as the flagship of the brand.
Signboard model “Tonow Carbex” that can be said to be the origin of the brand
“Tonneau Carbex”, which has a case reminiscent of “Tonneau”, is the brand’s first mass-produced collection. Since its introduction in 1992, various collections based on this model have been born. The ergonomically designed case fits your wrist thanks to its loosely bent Carvex shape, as well as its impact. The index of Byzantine numbers, which follows the tradition of Art Deco, is also a landmark of the model. SS case, size 39.5 x 55.5 mm, self-winding.
The essence of playing time. “Vegas” equipped with a roulette mechanism
“Vegas” is the model that most expresses the playfulness of Franck Muller. This is a gimmick that when you press the push button provided on the top of the crown, the roulette set in the center of the dial rotates at high speed, and when you press the button again, the hands stop at the numbers on the roulette. As soon as it appeared in 1999, it became a worldwide hit, and this roulette mechanism is inherited by the new “casino”. SS case, size 34 x 47 mm, self-winding.
“Crazy Hours” where irregular indexes promise unrealistic time
One of the collections that should be synonymous with “Franck Muller”. “Crazy Hours” is a unique arrangement of the jumping hour mechanism used by some luxury watch brands. It is a complication watch in which the hands instantly jump on the dial with irregular indexes to indicate the time. .. The fact that this mechanism, which is difficult to mass-produce and repair, is developed as a collection proves the brand’s outstanding technical capabilities. SS case, size 32 x 45 mm, self-winding.
Secret time that “Secret Hours” informs only the owner
Among the unconventional mechanisms of “Franck Muller”, “Secret Hours” stands out. When you press the push button at 9 o’clock, the hand that was stationary at 12 o’clock starts to move and displays the current time. And when you release the button, the hands return to the 12 o’clock position again, which makes the time at your wrist more private. Although it was announced in 2009, it is a rare model that is difficult to obtain now due to the small number of production. Pink gold case, size 35 x 42 mm, self-winding.
GMT model “Master Bunker” with the skill of a genius watchmaker
“Master Bunker” is a GMT collection developed by Franck Muller for his bunkerman (banker) friends. Since the main dial has two in-dial, it is possible to read three time zones instantly. Furthermore, unlike the general GMT watch, it is also noteworthy that all time adjustments can be operated with one crown. It is a complicated mechanism that can be realized only by the technical power of “Franck Muller”. SS case, size 39 x 46 mm, self-winding.
There are also abundant varieties. 5 masterpieces of “Franck Muller” recommended by the author
The world of “Franck Muller” is expanding further with collections and complex mechanisms that are announced every year. There are many derivative models, and the story that “one masterpiece creates a new masterpiece” also attracts watch lovers. In this part, we have picked up 5 recommended models from standard to rare models that are relatively easy to obtain!
Here is a large classic model that appeared in 1994 and triggered the “Franck Muller” boom. The origin of the name is the masterpiece “Casablanca” in the 1920s, and the essence of the work such as the desert of Morocco and the streets of Paris, which was the stage, is projected on the design. The reason for its popularity is its high practicality, such as a simple tonneau-shaped case that matches a wide range of dresses, a stainless steel (SS) case that was first adopted by the brand, and needles with fluorescent paint. SS case, size 36 x 41 mm, self-winding.
Long Island, New York, with its sandy beaches and wineries, and the scent of Art Deco in the 1920s. Inspired by this luxury resort, the model features a rectangular case with an elegant form. In addition, the brand’s iconic details such as Byzantine index, spade-shaped hand, and circle-shaped minute track are everywhere. It goes well with dressed-up dresses. Pink gold case, size 32.5 x 45 mm, self-winding.
“Vanguard”, which has the name of “pioneer”, is a standard that has already established immovable popularity while debuting in 2014. The biggest feature is in the line drawn by each part. The contrast between the curves and the straight lines, such as the curves drawn by the sapphire crystal windshield, the clean lines from the case to the belt emphasized by omitting the lugs, and the linear index dedicated to “Vanguard”, strengthens the modern image. increase. SS case, size 44 x 53.7 mm, self-winding.
A collection that reinterprets “Tonow Carbex” released in 1994. The large tonneau-shaped case is studded with details such as a double bezel with a step structure and a dial that emphasizes the height difference of each part, creating a powerful luxury taste worthy of the name of “conqueror”. .. There are many derivative models, and this is the “Grand Prix Chronograph” that expresses the racing spirit of F1. Titanium case, size 38.2 x 57.4 mm, self-winding.
The “Master Square”, which debuted in 2005, is a model derived from the “Long Island” collection with a rectangular case. The square case with the same length and width, the delicate guilloche dial, and the Roman index designed radially from the center give it an elegant atmosphere that is different from other collections. The carbex-shaped case has an excellent wrist fit. SS x diamond case, size 36 x 36 mm, self-winding.