Five criteria for men to choose a watch. Function, looks, or brand power?

Is it the beginning of a new life, a turning point in work, or when you get a lot of money? The time to consider a “little good watch” that you visit several times in your life is an irreplaceable bliss for a man who is particular about things. However, it is extremely difficult to find the one you really need. I bought it because I was attracted only to the brand, but I couldn’t wear it anywhere and it was for ornamental use.

When choosing a wristwatch, the first thing to consider is the “type” of the watch, which depends on the speed governor and drive system. When it comes to choosing a car, this corresponds to a drive system such as gasoline, diesel, or electric. Depending on the type, the personality of the wristwatch changes completely. In addition, the “function” of a wristwatch, which is convenient to have in your work or hobby, is also important as a key to your selection.

Of course, “design” is also important. Although it is extreme, watches and shoes are the only accessories that men can claim to be, and watches are items that can be seen by people anyway. If you pay attention to the case and strap and choose a watch that is suitable for TPO, you will feel more reliable in the first impression.

And if you take all of these into consideration and choose one of the surest “brands” that suits your age and position, choosing a watch will surely lead to success. In this article, we will explain the points of choosing men’s watches for each of the main types, functions, and designs, and finally introduce the brand items that we would like to recommend for each generation. Let’s derive the best one while considering your own lifestyle.

First, let’s read about the speed control drive system of the wristwatch. There are two main types, the first is an accurate quartz type that uses a crystal that is powered by a battery and causes a fixed number of vibrations when electricity is passed through it. As I will introduce later, this quartz type has an evolved version that always displays the correct time using standard radio waves carrying time information and GPS signals.

The other is a mechanical type that uses the unwinding force of the wound spring to move the watch. With some exceptions, this mechanical type keeps track of time by the regular movement of a pendulum-like moving part called the balance spring. While the quartz type is an electronic product, the mechanical type uses an old-fashioned analog mechanism that does not use the power of electricity.

Movement 1

Most of the watches we see in the world are quartz. Since it is an electronic product that can be mass-produced, it can be manufactured at low cost and has outstanding accuracy. Of course, the performance depends on the price, but if it is a product of a reliable brand, even the cheapest item will only go wrong for 15 to 30 seconds a month. It is also attractive that the only trouble is to replace the battery and it is almost maintenance-free. However, since it uses electronic parts, it ends there when the manufacturer finishes production. No matter how much you like it, basically it cannot be repaired. It is not a lifelong product that is passed down to the generations of grandchildren, and its asset value is not so high. However, the merit of price and usability is very big, and the quartz type is recommended as the first one.

Movement 2

The automatic winding mechanical type is adopted by all luxury brands such as “Rolex”. Many models have a transparent glass back cover, and the joy of seeing the traditional mechanism in motion is unique to the mechanical system. Also, if you wear it automatically, you don’t have to wind it up every day if you wear it every day. Since the power is analog, it is also attractive that it can be used by grandchildren as long as maintenance is not missed.

Therefore, you have to be prepared for a little cost for maintenance. Overhaul, which is an overhaul, requires disassembly and cleaning once every three to five years, which costs tens of thousands of yen. Also, in terms of accuracy, Quartz will be better off. Quartz shifts of about 15 to 30 seconds a month, but mechanical movements usually go crazy in a day.

Movement 3

Of all mechanical watches, manual winding is the most authentic mechanism. Since there are no parts that convey the movement of the arm to the royal fern, you need to wind it up before you can untie it with your own hands. However, the time and effort that has been passed down for 100 years until the spread of automatic winding in the middle of the 20th century is what makes manual winding attractive. It is probably this hand-wound that has the most fun as a luxury item to get the tradition. In addition, since there is no self-winding mechanism, it is possible to make an elegant thin model, and the number of parts is small, so the overhaul fee may be cheap. As a demerit, in addition to the need for manual winding as mentioned above, the accuracy is not as good as the quartz type as with automatic winding. Therefore, many people buy manual winding as a second or third watch that they can wear when they can afford it.

Movement 4

Finally, let’s return to the quartz type and introduce the radio and GPS watches that have become popular recently. A radio-controlled clock is a clock equipped with a function that catches standard radio waves with time information emitted by each country and automatically adjusts the time. Similarly, GPS receiving clocks always display accurate time by capturing GPS signals from artificial satellites. Both sounds the same, but in contrast to radio-controlled clocks, which are ordinary quartz clocks in areas where standard radio waves do not reach, GPS-received clocks can capture signals anywhere in the world. Until a while ago, models equipped with a radio wave reception function had the disadvantages of thicker exteriors and severe battery consumption, but now they have evolved to a level that does not pose any practical problems due to technological innovation.

It is very important to look back on your lifestyle and identify the features it has. After all, a wristwatch is something you can wear every day. You may feel stressed just because you don’t have one feature you need. On the contrary, if you choose an over-engineered model, the purchase price and maintenance fee will be high, although it is natural. Let’s explain the main functions and features of the wristwatch so that you can find the one you really need.

Function 1

Water is the enemy of watches. Therefore, some degree of waterproof performance is required. If a few drops of water splash on your watch when you wash your hands, 3 to 5 atmospheres, which is said to be water resistant in everyday life, will suffice. However, considering that it will rain suddenly, it is safe to have a water resistance of 100m (10 atm). If you want to dive in the sea, you should consider a full-scale model with 200m water resistance (20 atm), which is regarded as a diving watch by JIS standard.

The last thing to watch out for is the shower. The waterproof spec is a value that can withstand the corresponding atmospheric pressure and meters, and the water pressure from the shower is not taken into consideration. Therefore, even if the packing (rubber parts inside) is weak, it may easily be flooded. It is important to remove it when taking a bath and to maintain it regularly.

Function 2

What is not surprisingly known is the effect of magnetism. Most watch parts are made of metal. If you bring your wristwatch close to a device that emits magnetism, such as a speaker or PC, it will be magnetized, which will affect its operation. In particular, mechanical watches tend to be out of order in accuracy, and once they are magnetized, they need to be demagnetized with a demagnetizer. For this reason, many models with anti-magnetism measures have recently been released, such as covering the movement with parts that do not allow magnetism to pass through, or making parts from materials that are not affected by magnetism. Those who work surrounded by magnetic devices should buy such a magnetically resistant model.

Function 3

If you’re in a tight schedule environment, it’s a good idea to choose a model with a calendar display. There are many dates that have a date-only display function, but it is even more convenient to choose a day-date that also has a day of the week display function. Models that digitally display numbers and days of the week like images are common, but there are also models such as the pointer date of “Oris” that has a subdial and points the date and day of the week with the hands. This looks great with an accent effect.

Function 4

A chronograph is a stopwatch function. It can be said that there is almost no opportunity in modern times to measure time in comma units with the chronograph function of analog clocks, regardless of whether it is a digital clock. However, it is far more convenient to measure on a wristwatch than to use a smartphone for a short time measurement such as when using a parking meter or while cooking.

In addition, the analog chronograph has many parts and a complicated mechanism, so it is a higher-end machine than a normal three-hand watch. The satisfaction of wearing such a mechanism on your wrist is exceptional. In addition, the timekeeping sub-dial and hands lined up in a narrow space are perfect for creating sportiness. Many people find value in their looks, even if they don’t use the features.

Function 5

An increasing number of watches can collect light on the panel and charge the battery. Generally, the word “solar charging” is widely used, so there is an image that it can only be charged with strong sunlight, but recent technological innovations in power generation panels are continuing, and it is possible to fully charge even with indoor light. Of course, no battery replacement is required. If you think that you will use the watch for 10 years, you will change the battery 4 to 5 times during that time, so a simple calculation will save you more than 4,000 yen. Also, considering that you will not have to go to the battery replacement, optical charging is extremely advantageous. It’s a perfect feature for business people who are busy running around every day.

Function 6

For those who often go abroad on business trips or travels, a wristwatch with a dual time function is convenient. Dual time is a function that can display the time of two countries on one dial. In other words, in addition to Japan time, the time of the destination can be displayed at the same time. The most common type of analog clock is a type that installs two hour hands in the center and displays the time zone for two countries. There is also a model like the one in the picture that has a sub dial in addition to the main dial to display the second time zone.

Next, I will introduce the case shape that has a great influence on the impression. The basis is a round shape. It is the most popular at present, and it has an outstanding sense of stability, or worse, it is safe. The square type that uses a straight line has a sharper and more intelligent impression than the round type. There are many variations of the square shape, so you can finely reflect your taste. If you want more personality, you should choose a variant that is extremely unique to your brand.

Case shape 1

The round type is the most common case shape in today’s wristwatches. Since the hands of the clock draw a circle, the dial can be used efficiently, and the built-in movement is basically circular, so the cost can be reduced compared to the square move, which is produced in small numbers. And above all, you can get a sense of security and stability only in the standard form. Especially in the business scene where trust is important, the round shape that does not look strange is definitely the choice. After choosing the round type, it is recommended to add other forms as the second and third according to the TPO.

Case shape 2

A rectangular case is a rectangular case. It is a historic form that retains the style of Art Deco, which was a popular art style at that time, which has continued since the 1920s. Round cases dominate the world today, but at that time rectangular was a very major shape. Its classical and delicate case form gives an adult-like intellectual impression. Especially famous are the “Reverso” series of “Jaeger-LeCoultre” and the “Tank” series of “Cartier”.

Case shape 3

Like the rectangular, the tonneau type is an elegant case strongly influenced by Art Deco. Tonneau means barrel in French, and tonneau-shaped literally means a rounded barrel-shaped watch. The curved sides of the case create a gentle and elegant taste. It is a case form that has a long history along with rectangular, but nowadays, “Franck Muller” is famous when it comes to tonneau-shaped watches. In addition, although it is difficult to obtain, the emerging ultra-luxury brand “Richard Mille” is also known as a brand that sticks to the tonneau type.

Case shape 4

A square is a square case. In the history of wristwatches, it has a venerable form, and the “Santos” of “Cartier”, which is said to be the originator of the men’s wristwatch that appeared in 1904, adopts this square type. In addition to “Santos”, it is often used in watches with iconic designs that decorate the history of watches, such as “Monaco” from “TAG Heuer” and “BR-03” from “Bell & Ross”.

Case shape 5

If you want a strong personality, there are options other than round and square. For example, “Ventura” in “Hamilton”. The futuristic form of the triangle is effective as an eye catcher on the wrist, and it is effective as an entity that attracts equal attention from both beginners and experts. In addition, there are many unusual models such as the oval case “Millenary” of “Audemars Piguet” and the unique shape “Cartier” and “Tank For” that look like a crash.

Along with the case, the strap greatly affects the impression of the watch. Even in the same case, depending on the material and shape of the strap, it is possible to control the dress and casual style. Let’s take a look at the characteristics of the main straps, which can be said to be the seasonings of wristwatches.

Strap 1

For formal occasions such as ceremonial occasions, black leather straps are the norm instead of metal straps. Brown makes it a little more casual, and leather with patterns such as grain and alligator gives it a luxurious feel. Therefore, it is convenient to arrange variations of leather straps in colors and materials assuming TPO. However, leather is a consumable item. In the summer, the sweat from your arm can hurt you a lot, so care after use is essential, and you need to be careful about rain. Remember that the basics are exchanged in 2 years.

Strap 2

The most orthodox shape of the metal bracelet is probably the silver stainless steel triple bracelet. The shape that most effectively expresses the tough texture of metal can create a sporty atmosphere. It has a neat and youthful impression, so even young people can use it, and even older adults can use it to create energy. In this way, the triple bracelet has the advantage that it can be worn by anyone. There is no deterioration like leather, so the cost performance is good, and it is definitely the first one with high versatility.

Generally, the finer the bracelet, the more delicate it becomes, which gives it a delicate and elegant impression. For example, in the case of “Rolex”, triple bracelets are often attached to sports models, and five bracelets called Jubilee bracelets are mainly attached to the most dressy “Day-Date” and precious metal models. Even in “Grand Seiko”, the five-series breath is a hand-wound line with a bitter taste. For this reason, young people tend to think that the hurdles are high, but because the pieces are finely divided, the skill is the best. Some people choose for this comfort.

Strap 3

The lack of material density makes it less luxurious, but the mesh and Milanese are delicate straps that are perfect for casual watches. The understated presence matches well with models with a simple dial. It is often used in Scandinavian design watches such as “Skagen” and “Bering”, and it is also characterized by its ability to create a unisex atmosphere. In addition, it can be said that it bends steplessly compared to the metal bracelet of 3 or 5 stations, so it is also an advantage that it is excellent in familiarity with the arm.

Strap 4

Textile straps such as nylon were originally used for military purposes. Since it was a rule of thumb that military rations were as cheap as possible, military watches by Hamilton and Bulova at the time also wore textile straps. The biggest attraction is the ease of use due to its low cost. With a wide variety of colors and patterns, you can enjoy customizing as many as you like. But that’s not the only benefit. Anyway, it is lightweight, tougher than leather, and resistant to water, so it is easy to use in daily life. Also, among the items introduced, it goes very well with casual fashion, and the custom of wearing the NATO strap, which is the royal road of military straps, on luxury watches has become a standard item.

A wristwatch that eloquently tells the personality of the wearer. As the age rings change, the values ​​and positions change, so it is natural that the tastes and watches to be worn will change depending on the generation. Here, we will introduce the recommended brand watches that TASCLAP considers by generation.

Speaking of people in their twenties, they are the generation who have taken the first step as a member of society and are financially independent. Of course, casual watches in the 10,000-20,000 yen range are good, but you should get one that is not embarrassing no matter where you wear it. Here, we will introduce less than 200,000 gems that you want to get even if you stretch a little. If you have a budget of 200,000 yen, you can also aim for prestigious Swiss brands, and you can get one suitable for adults. The point of choice is not to lose youthfulness. Therefore, the best material for the case and bracelet is silver stainless steel, which makes you feel sporty and fresh, and stylish matte black stainless steel if you place more importance on youthfulness. In addition, design-conscious models such as Bauhaus-derived watches are models that you should definitely keep in mind because they look good on young people.

1st

Swiss long-established watch brand “Oris” boasts a history of over 100 years. We have a large lineup of high-quality Swiss-made mechanical watches at affordable prices if you do your best. Among them, the diver’s watch is a signboard of “Oris” that many famous divers have used habitually. In particular, this “Divers 65” is equipped with a self-winding movement and is water resistant to 10 atmospheres (100 m). If you’re in your twenties, it’s a good idea to bring your activity to the forefront with a sports watch that has a strong presence like a diver’s watch. Now the model has a vintage design that incorporates bronze as a point and is calm, so even if you match it with your suit style, there should be no seniors who will make you worried.

2nd

Along with “Rolex” and “Omega”, the prestigious “TAG Heuer” representing Switzerland. It is a luxury brand with a history of over 160 years, but there is also a lineup of quartz models that can be obtained for a whopping 100,000 yen range. The “Aqua Racer” is a 300m water resistant diver’s watch, but the point is that it has a 41mm diameter that is neither too large nor too small. The polished and satin-polished stainless steel bezel gives off a dressy impression, and it is also attractive that it can be turned on and off.

3rd

Born in the United States and now based in Switzerland, “Hamilton”. Famous for its military watches, it has a wide lineup of divers, dress models and aviation watches. Since it has a long history, it has many excellent archives, and now the model corresponds to the reprint model of the chronograph that was born in 1968. This is not a chronograph but a three-hand model, but it has a trendy retro-style two-tone classical look and is fitted with a chic leather strap to match its dial. It would be a privilege for people in their twenties to wear this iconic design watch without hesitation. In addition, it has many functional advantages such as a power reserve of about 80 hours and a magnetic balance spring, and it is guaranteed that watch lovers will pay attention to it from the specifications.

4th

“Frédérique Constant” is a new brand founded in 1988, but it is known as one of the few manufacturers (a manufacturer that consistently manufactures movements in-house), and is famous for its high technology and elegant design. .. There are many models with excellent cost performance in the lineup, and it can be said that it is a considerable bargain to buy a Swiss-made mechanical watch with plenty of guilloche for the 100,000 yen range. If you want a watch that works well in formal occasions, check out Frederique Constant.

5th

Although it is an extremely simple 3-hand watch, the “Conquest” gives a sharp impression with a large Arabic index and a crown guard made up of straight lines. By the way, the first “Conquest” was born in 1954 and has long supported the brand as a popular model of “Longines”. This model is equipped with a self-winding movement and boasts a water resistance of 30 bar (300 m). The case diameter is 39mm, which is small in size, but the powerful facial expression and triple bracelets make it stand out on your wrist.

6th

The strong point of “Tissot” is that you can get a Swiss-made chronograph for less than 100,000 yen. This sporty chronograph with push buttons and three in-dial dials is also available for 82,500 yen (tax included). In particular, this “PRS 516 Chronograph” is a homage to motor sports, so the dial pattern has a more leshy atmosphere. It is the best model if you want to show off your youthfulness. By adopting ceramic with a beautiful luster for the bezel, it also cultivates elegance that can be matched with suits. It is also suitable for business situations.

7th

“NOMOS” has a workshop in Glashütte, the home of the German watch industry. Under the influence of the Bauhaus movement, which had a great influence on modern products, the bezel has been sharpened to the utmost limit to make the dial look larger and pursue visibility. The movement is old-fashioned hand-wound. By that amount, the case is thin and has a size that fits comfortably on the wrist. In addition, it is especially recommended for those who are doing creative work because it can appeal the intellectual taste with good taste.

In his thirties, he is entrusted with responsible work and is also a period to deepen himself. To prove your achievements and confidence in yourself, you should have a watch that is recognized as a luxury watch by the world. Unlike in the 20s, choosing not only stainless steel but also a calm leather belt will improve reliability. Also, when you are young, a watch with a sharp design that is considered cheeky by older people with old values ​​is allowed to some extent. One of the strengths of people in their thirties is that they have a wider range of selections. In terms of investing in yourself, we will introduce recommended models with a maximum of 500,000 to 600,000 units that Swiss ultra-luxury brands can see.

1st

For those in their twenties, youthful edgy divers are good, but for those in their thirties, the “Seamaster” of “OMEGA” draws a graceful impression with the wave pattern on the dial and the multiple dressy breaths. Is recommended. This model, which can be said to be a representative of divers known to anyone who is interested in watches, is water resistant to 300 meters and, of course, is equipped with a self-winding movement. By adopting the Co-Axial escapement unique to “Omega”, this movement has greatly improved durability, and the overhaul interval, which costs tens of thousands of yen, has been dramatically extended, which is a very nice mechanism for users. It complies with the master chronometer, which is a stricter in-house standard than the Swiss chronometer certification standard, and its reliability is perfect.

2nd

“Super Aution” that appeared in 1957. This model is a modern update of its historic timepiece. The bezel is made of scratch-resistant and glossy ceramic, equipped with an in-house self-winding movement, and boasts a high water resistance of 200 m. The mesh bracelet that makes you feel the history also contributes to making the divers who tend to have a slightly rugged impression look graceful. This “Super Auction Heritage II” is a mature diver’s watch suitable for people in their thirties.

3rd

“Grand Seiko” has the impression that there are many elderly users, but it is a waste to wait until that age! For example, how about this GMT model with light blue all over the place? The vivid accent color and sharp three-dimensional index add youthfulness to the originally calm “Grand Seiko”, and it looks like it can be worn even in the thirties. It is equipped with the quartz movement that “Seiko” is proud of, which is said to be 9F. The error of one year is within 10 seconds, which is extremely accurate.

4th

Among the popular line “Luminol” of “Panerai”, “Luminol Base” is a model with attractive simplicity without the second hand. There is only the brand that drove the big boom of wristwatches, and the crown guard and power are perfect in the case diameter of 44 mm. However, with its simple dial and leather belt that creates a calm impression, it has succeeded in neutralizing the strength of extrusion. The movement is hand-wound, but the twin barrel with two mainsprings has a power reserve of 8 days, so you don’t have to worry too much about winding the mainspring.

5th

Speaking of El Primero of “Zenith”, it is a famous chronograph movement that leaves a brilliant name in the history of watches. The feature of this model is the open heart that allows you to see the movement from the dial side. It is equipped with a tachymeter scale that can measure the speed and two push buttons and in-dial to produce a moderate sportiness, but the open heart and leather belt make it an elegant finish. It is perfect for on-style. If your business partner is a watch lover, there is no doubt that flowers will bloom in the watch discussion.

6th

French brand “Bell & Ross” was born in 1991. The square watch “BR” series, which is full of military taste, appeared in 2005 and has been the brand’s signature model ever since. The fashionable square shape, such as the screw being struck, is fascinating, but “Bell & Ross” has a motto of making tough watches for professional use, 100m water resistant and double-sided anti-reflective coating with good visibility. The specs are authentic, such as applying to the windshield. Equipped with a convenient GMT, it looks good but has certain functionality. It is such a masterpiece watch.

7th

“IWC” is famous for its pilot watches. Although it is a Swiss watch, it is based in Schaffhausen, a German-speaking country, and is designed to fit the word “simple and strong” that is often used to describe German products. This model also has no excessive decoration, and the simple dial with Arabic numerals shows the design philosophy that prioritizes visibility. In addition, the five breaths are in close contact with the arm and are very comfortable to wear. It’s not flashy, but it’s a favorite brand, so it’s a great model to show off your integrity and reliability.

When you are in your 40s, trust and capacity are more important than glaring and aggressiveness. Also, in business situations, you will often be in charge, so you will need to be good at your skills. In that case, I would like to have a dress model that uses precious metal cases such as gold and leather belts. However, 80 years of life. It is also conceivable to settle down in your 40s. It’s fun to play with colors and shapes without degrading the dignity of the middle class. Some of them cost more than 1 million yen, but if you think of them as assets for old age, you’ll be convinced.

1st

Speaking of elegant rectangular cases, “Reverso” of “Jaeger-LeCoultre”. The case is designed to flip, which is designed to protect the dial from damage when used in polo competitions. The vertically long form itself gives an elegant impression, but the guilloche and blue-printed needles in the center are very classical, and it surely shifts the coordination to an adult. In addition, despite its small size, the movement uses automatic winding, eliminating the need to wind the mainspring.

2nd

In 1904, “Cartier” was the first men’s watch in the world to be released. The model for it is “Santos de Cartier”. The basic design code of the current model is almost the same as when it was born, so you can see how complete it was. The dial with the railway pattern on the Roman index is a classic style royal road, it is not out of fashion, and once you get it, you can use it for a long time. In addition, the blue spinel placed on the crown is also useful as an accent for coordination that you can glimpse through the cuffs.

3rd

The price is so high that you can buy an entry grade car from a luxury manufacturer. However, “Karatraba” can be said to be not expensive when considered as a lifelong product. After all, it has an asset value as a core model of the world’s best watch brand “Patek Philippe”, and has declared unlimited repairs of all products manufactured since its establishment (models outside the warranty period are charged), not only for life but also for grandchildren. It comes with a guarantee that it can be passed down to generations. “Patek Philippe” is a model for all dress models. It’s a watch that you can buy hard in your 40s.

4th

Abraham-Louis-Breguet, a French genius watchmaker who speaks in such words, a man who has advanced the history of watches by 200 years. “Breguet” is a luxury brand bearing his name. While there are many classical model lineups, this “TYPE XXI” is a sporty chrono divers model. However, the rotating bezel is made of the same material as the case, and it does not make it claim like other brands of divers, so it has a chic atmosphere. It is also a point that the movement is equipped with a high-performance automatic winding with a flyback function.

5th

The case is only 8.5mm thick. “Blancpain” “Villeret” is an ultra-slim case that elegantly creates your wrist. The applied index of the classical Roman index is arranged in a modest size, and the other display counters are finished as simple as possible. The face brings outstanding cleanliness to any coordination. The mechanical movement is hand-wound because it is thin, but it boasts a power reserve of 100 hours, so it does not need to be wound frequently.

6th

Hublot is one of the brands that has become more and more popular in recent years. It is the existence that should be called Zhang himself who created the recent trend in the luxury watch world that mixes different materials. This model is also finished in a very strong extruded design, such as combining ceramics with stainless steel and combining three-dimensional parts intricately. Although it is a design that insists on individuality, it is often possible to choose a model with such a strong presence in order to appeal to the energetic 40s who are still in their 40s.

7th

The super popular model “Explorer I” of “Rolex” which was remodeled this year. Due to its unusual popularity, it is almost impossible to buy at a regular store. The price of parallel import shops is well over 1 million yen, but there is a great possibility that the price will increase steadily in the future, and it is not high considering the asset value. Above all, the tough and timeless face with 3 hands made for adventurers is also outstanding as a wristwatch.